The Deep Half Boots are in, smooth natural leather, with 5/8″deeper for the orthotics.
We used the left and right last, which we call the Half Boots of the Trekkers series. The Deep Half Boot will be designated DHB.
We are bringing the first order in Natural leather. The only change we have made in the design is a slight peak in the back. It curves up from the front only about ½”. Really so we can tell easily the deep version from the regular trekkers.
We hope this will fill a need for the re-enactor that needs to use orthotic and whose that just want a jell sole for more comfort in the field.
The price will be the same as our regular Trekkers and the first order will be from 9D or EE to 12 D or EE. We will fill out later for the full range of sizes.
Subject: Re: Thank you for your order
Great to hear. Thank you very much for the quick response and clarification!
I should be shipping them back in the next day or to to exchange. I can see why all the reenactors recommend your footwear.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2011 at 12:06 PM, Fugawee Corp <email@example.com> wrote:
> Of c course we will be glad to exchange for the rough outs. Just
> stick a note into the box and we will send out what you want. By the
> way, unlike other companies, we do not have a 14day exchange. If the
> shoe are in new condition, we will exchange and no re-stocking fees.
> Nancy Ayotte
> Fugawee Corp
I found out that my closest Brannock equivalent for shoe size is 14C. Is such a size available?
Can the height of one boots be customized, or are the boots at fixed heights? (I'd like a 27'' shaft.) My thighs at 27'' H are measure 20'' wide. My calves at app. 13.5'' H are 17 3/16'' W.
When a cuff is rolled up, is its outer shiny black or unlined (roughout) maple?
What's the heel height of these boots?
Thanks for the questions. First we carry sizes up to 15 with half size also. The cuff on the Revere is 5″ and can be slid up so that the boot comes higher to the knee. The cuff is made of a softer leather and is only attached to the boot at one end so it will unfold as you slid it upward. That still does not give you 27″ but you might find the higher length would interfere with the bend in your knee. Most times for shorter people the cuff can come up and go over the knee to keep brush out while riding. From floor to top (cuff down) is 19 1/2″. I am sorry but these are not custom made and come in standard heights. The width of the calf is 19.1/4″.
The leather heel is 1″- 1 ¼”.
Although these boots are left and rights it is a good idea to mark, on the inside, which is right foot, as they appear almost as straight last. My husband found this out when his boots began to bother him about mid-day and he discovered he had them on the wrong way.
I have feet that measure 13A. For years I have worn 12B or 12 Narrow. I have a pair of colonial shoes from Flying canoe that are size 11 1/2 medium. A little work was required to have space for my big toes.
I'd like a pair of period boots from 1779 through 1812, the two eras I reenact.
Any advise on whether you have a hi-low boot that would fit my foot? I am looking for something for early season and late season in the Southern Michigan/Northern Indiana region. I'd like to have a pair of wool sox inside the boots for insulation.
I'd like some assurance the boots will fit prior to the purchase.
Our Trekkers, that includes the Hi-Lows and Half boots come in D and EE widths. I think that the D would give you the room to wear wool socks. I would suggest that a 12D is the size you might try. Our boots are like all the 17th century footwear, have no toe box. The slope of the leather to the sole requires more room in front of your foot so that there is room for your toes without the leather bearing on your toes. The Trekkers series will be correct for both periods that you portray. The Straight last Hi-low is most accurate, but some prefer the l/r models as they both styles mold to the shape of your foot after a few wearing’s.
It is hard to guarantee that a shoe will fit, but our exchange policy is easy. Try the boots on, over a carpet and if the soles are not scuffed we will exchange or refund. If you pay the postage to us we will send the exchange to you. All that is necessary is a note in the box with your returns.
The Hi-Lows are a straight last, the Half boots are left/rights. The boots come in black rough-out or a natural-rough-out. The natural leather is easy to dye. Use a dye that is alcohol based and it should be fast, without streaks.
If you would like to send an outline of your foot, we will do our best to send the best size to you. Trying on a shoe or boot is the only way to be sure it is correct for you.
We like Lexol. It is a very good dressing, replaces the oils that evaporate from the leather. Does not stain clothes or hands.
There are many good dressing, but we prefer Lexol.
Customers that have been in standing water should remove their shoe to let them dry naturally. Giving them an application of a good dressing such as Lexol will help the shoes resist water. When near a fire and they see steam from their shoes, it is too late, the leather has already been boiled.
I have just a couple questions about your products. I work at a circa 1700 historic site and am interested in buying thin but sturdy stockings for my interpreters. The problem is some of them have very large calves and thighs, so I need a stocking that really does fit larger men and women. What would you suggest, do you carry anything that really will fit very plus-size people? I also am considering our footwear and was very interested in some of the options seen on your site. Could you please explain the sizing system and what the different lettered widths mean so I'll know what to order?
Thank you for your inquiry. Let me answer the shoe questions first. Ladies shoes fit about the same size as modern sizes. The width B is medium width and C is wider. At the moment we do not have the side opening in our shoes that is common with 17th Century shoes. However our shoes are a full grain leather and not lined. That means that with a stencil or pattern the small opening under the latchet could be cut out. For the men’s sizes and the slope of the leather to the sole, we advise at least a ½ size larger so that the toes have more room and the leather does not press down on the toe nail. The E in men’s widths is like a modern D, EE width goes up by 1/16th all around (1/8”in width.) EEE is that same increase in size.
We are very happy to work with you on sizes and if anyone needs an exchange for size, as long as the soles are not scuffed, we will be happy to exchange the size. As far as the shipping goes we will split it with you, ship to us and we will pay shipping to you.
We do carry a few styles that have a deeper foot bed so that inner soles like gel or orthotics could be used. Lexington for one.
We carry one line of stockings that have a softer top that will stretch better. The stockings are over the knee but with more stretch the less likely to go over the knee. I have worn them and prefer to have then just under my knee as it give me more comfort all around. These are the ones we have in plain colors, the strips tend not to have as much stretch. $15.00 a pair.
With 18th Century shoes, you should increase the size because there is very little toe room. (The toe box was not commonly used until near the Civil War.) Therefore the leather slopes over the toes to the sole. We have made a little extra room considering modern feet but to keep the look of 18th century, you still need to increase a ½ or whole size.
You did not mention what width you take. The 1758 comes in E, EE and EEE. The E is more like our modern D. Increasing the size you also increase the width.
So if you take a D in modern shoes and increase in size for the 1758 a E width should be enough for the wool socks too.
The 1758’s are made on a straight last shoe and we advise marking inside of the shoe on which foot the shoe should be worn. Add an arch support and it will identify which foot and make the wearing more comfortable. ANy questions please call us 800-605-8280
Is there was something besides heel plates and hobnails for shoe and boots to give you traction on grassy hills?
To stay in period only hobnails or heel plates would have been used to get more traction and lengthen the wear of shoes bottoms.
..If on the other side if you are more interested in protecting your backside, the least noticeable modern choices would be a natural color “sole/heel saver”. This would have to be put on by a shoe repair shop and they may have to order the natural colored one as many only carry black. The natural color looks very much like leather and would give you the same traction that a rubber heel would. The “Sole Saver” and “heel saver” will give you longer wear for your boots, but they will not pass inspection if you are in a unit that does that.
If your an re-enact both Rev. War and CW. Let me give you some background for the styles The Revere boot came in and has stayed in style, from the Rev. War ‘til today . Of course today you might only see the boot at horse trials. However it was used by Officers in both the Rev. War and Civil War. Officers often purchased their own uniforms. Not many enlisted men would have the money to purchase boots and usually used what was provided. They could of course if they had the means, it was all right. The cuff is adjustable to snug up to your knee, or when riding it can go over the knee to keep the brush out.
The Stovepipe as we show it was for the Civil War and after, but some knee high boots are shown in paintings. Still mostly for the Officers. If you are not pertaining an officer you still might use the 1861 boot, that comes about mid-calf. These were used for Mounted soldiers and artillery. The difference is the Mounted preferred the smooth leather and the Artillery used the rough-out leather. The rough-out gave a smooth interior much like a lining.
I have attached some photos so you can look at them. For a better 360 degree look, go to our website. There you can turn the boots all the way around.