Over the course of the War for Independence, the British Government Leased 30,067 Hessian Mercenaries for just the American Revolution. It worked so well that they were used by lots of different countries. Sometimes the Hessians were on both sides of a war at the same time.

 Fugawee’s Hessian boot is another well made long lasting leather boot, Steel shank construction. Stacked leather heel, fully lined here are some of the works we used. 

References to Hessian boots:  Direct copy from their boots, no editing by me.

“If the shoe fits” by Bill Severn   pg. 119

Hungarians introduced the hussar boot for military wear.  When it first appeared in London in 1770’s on the feet of the Hessian mercenaries hired by George 111 to fighting the American colonies, it was called the Austrian boot.  Later, the English took to calling it the Hessian boot, the name by which it also became known in America.  In France, a version of the same boot was named the Sonvaroff, after a Russian general.  Whatever name was used, the basic style was a knee-high boot, usually of shiny black leather topped with gold or silver braid.  The center rose to a peak at the front that frequently was decorated with a free- swinging silk tassel.  Worn over tight pantaloons, the boots were first ridiculed by conservative gentlemen who didn’t intend to trade their handsome top boots for them, but they were the height of fashion by the century’s end.

“The Mode in Footwear” by R. Turner Wilcox.  Page 120 [most of this is like the description from Bill Severn’s book.]

It was at this time that the hussar boot entered the mode.  It was introduced to the European armies in the seventeenth century by the Hungarian hussars.  When the boot appeared in London in 1770’s on the legs of the Hessian mercenaries hired by George 111 to fight the American colonists, it was first called the Austrian boot, but eventually, it became the Hessian boot to the English and the Americans.  To the French, it was the hussar or Souvaroff, so named after the great Russian general of the period. (1729-1800).

The boot was first looked upon with derision, in comparison with the handsome top boot; but as happens time and time again, the scoffed at newcomer became the very height of fashion by the end of the century.  Hessians were worn over the tight-fitting pantaloons, of shiny black leather, the top finished with gold and silver braid, and a silk tassel jauntily swinging from the up-peaking center front.

{this next bit is a good description of the polish that was used}

In general, boot legs were polished to a dull finish with viscid dressing composed of the white of an egg and lamp soot, this English cream much in demand all over Europe.  Bootblacks or, by the French name, “artist polishers” opened small shops for the purpose.  In London, where they were especially necessary because of the ill-paved streets and lack of drainage, there were bootblacks or “boot” stationed at most street corners. Ready to clean the footwear of gentlemen and beaux.

“Fashion in Costume 1200-2000” by Joan Nunn

Jack boots, by 1725 worn only by postillions, coachmen, etc., were succeeded by a clos-fitting boot shaped to the leg and cut away behind the knee, and by jockey tops or half jack boots which ended below the knee with a turn-down top of softer, lighter coloured leather; after 1780 they were called top boots. Spatterdashes were still worn by the country, as were gaiters, introduced for the infantry around 1710-20 and worn civilians during the 1770s but considered unfashionable after 1790.  Hessians – short riding boots, calf-length behind and generally curving to a point in front below the kneecap and decorated with a tassel – appeared after 1790 but are more a feature early 19^th-century dress.  Boots were not worn indoors by men of fashion during this century until after 1780 when they became suitable for all occasions.

Page 110

From 1800 to 1820, high boots were general wear in both town and country.  Some were adapted from military styles and named after military leaders.  After 1830, high or ‘over’ boots were confined to country or sporting wear, but the short boot, worn under trousers, remained in fashion in various forms into the next century. Hessians (1790- 1850) and hussar (1800-20) were both calf-length behind, rising to a point in front just below the knee, low-heeled, and of black leather.  Hessians occasionally had a narrow border contrasting coloured leather around the top and were always trimmed with a tassel at the point.  Hussars might have a turn-over top.  Wellingtons from 1817, were like 18-century top boots without the turnover: the name was later to be used for rubber boots in the 20^th-century.

“Costumes of the 17 & 18^th Century” by Phillis Cunnington   page 76

Hessians were short riding boots rising to a point in front to below the knee and generally decorated with a tassel (Introduced in the 1790’s)

“History of Men’s Costume” by Marion Sichel   page 42

Hussar boots, popular towards the end of the century were also called hessian boots, originating from the German Principality of Hess.  These were short riding boots to just below the knees, higher in the front with a tassel decoration.  These were mainly black, with a coloured border on the top.

“Shoes” by June Swan

{several pages listed, but I could only find a  true reference in the following}

Page 33

Brummel’s other choice was the hessian, cut with a V-dip at center front with tassel; according to Rees it was ‘brought into this country from Germany in the beginning of this war about 1794 or 5, – though one of the MPs in the painting of Pitt’s Address to the Commons in the previous year also wore them, in black with red top binding.  Rees also referred  to them as ‘the Hessian or

Austrian boot:  lately, they were of a gradual sweep in front and with a peak behind; now(1813) they are square in front without a peak behind.’ The walking attire of John Horseman in 1804 was ‘hessian boots with immense tassels’(and see fig.27).  By 1830 the “Whole Art of Dress” by a Cavalry Officer says that they were ‘only worn with tight pantaloons’, and by 1861 Whyte Melville’s “Good for Nothing “says: There are no hessian boots now’ – though they did survive for military wear.

The Hessians were ousted by the wellington.

Page 39  short mention

The 1858 Dunkley account book has ‘best calf screw clump sole wellingtons at 21 shillings.’ American army boots in 1872 were brass screwed Hessians or bluchers.

Page 43

The predominant footwear, as the British set out to conquer the world, was naturally boots.  “The Whole Art of Dress “1830, reports: ‘the hessian is a boot only worn with tight pantaloons.  The top boot is almost entirely a sporting fashion.  Although they are worn by noblemen and gentlemen in hunting, they are in general use among the lower orders, such as jockeys, grooms, butlers.  The Wellington…the only boot in general wear’. The hessian survived longer in the United States.  The 1858 patent for a brass toe bit is on a machine-sewn hessian with pegged sole, and the photograph, c 1879 of Billy the Kid, shows him in medium high-heeled Hessians with front dip, but no tassel, the straps hanging outside. 

We placed two sturdy pull tabs inside each boot.  If you do not have boot hooks, It’s easy enough to carry a couple of leather laces in your pocket. Run a leather lace or sturdy cord through each tab and use them to pull the boot upward. 

The “pass line” where your foot is going through the curve is the tightest part of the boot but a shake of talcum powder and a pair of sturdy leather laces will get the boot on. 

Paul Revere’s boot has a natural color cuff of heavy, supple glove leather.  When the boot comes off the bench, the cuff is turned all the way down.  There is plenty of leather cuff for you to easily roll up the cuff to whatever height you desire.

The object is to avoid any gap below your breeches or any show of breeches cuff or stocking.  The functional cuff also may be turned up to protect a rider’s knees and prevent the entrance of rainwater, etc.

“By 1727 the riding bootleg had become softer and closer-fitting……(the) jockey in close-fitting boots with brown tops…..the top was turned down below the knee for greater mobility, showing the brown lining.  It was soon adapted for fashionable wear.  .. … These are the boots with brown top featured in caricatures of John Bull, ……The top boots were worn by Thomas Jefferson, now in the Smithsonian are of this type. Quotes from June Swann’s “Shoes”    ISBN 0 7134 09428

Full and half sizes 5EE to 15EE.  Ladies should take 1 1/2 size smaller.

ALL SALES FINAL – NO RETURNS

We wanted more of a common man’s shoe. Then we named it the Concord in honor of the heroes who left their homes and their wife-warm beds to gather at the Concord bridge and dare the British Empire to do its worst.  Buckles sold separately, but if shipped with shoes, included in shipping price. All shoes sold without buckles, please see our buckle selection.

             “Here once the embattled farmers stood and fired the shot heard round the world.”

Originally designed to honor those men who fired the shot heard round the World, the Concord is proving popular with women who want a solid and comfortable shoe that will stand up to grass and gravel; a shoe that will carry a tired woman until sunset.  

CLOSE OUT – ALL SALES FINAL

  Black smooth finish 5E to 15EEE half and whole sizes. Left and rights

Buckles sold separately 

Black & Natural laced Half Boots

Several names for the same boot. This type of footwear was seen in paintings of English sporting scenes in the mid-1700s. It was firmly established in the new Republic before the Revolution. 

The Natural Half Boot, Colonial to begin with,  later became the proper, “four inches above the ankle” Jefferson Bootee for 1812, Seminole War and Mexican War.  Remember, all laced shoes were called “Jefferson” until the 1880s.

All leather, 8 lace holes, natural color rough-out half boot. This is a left/right boot.

Full and half sizes 7 to 15, widths D and EE

Hi-Lows,  Buskins,  Trekkers 

Black & Natural laced Half Boots

Several names for the same boot. This type of footwear was seen in paintings of English sporting scenes in the mid-1700s. It was firmly established in the new Republic before the Revolution. Thomas Jefferson’s hi-low “Overshoes” may be seen in “Collector’s Illustrated.   Encyclopedia of the American Revolution”. Castle Books 1975 Neumann and Kravic (pg 123)

“There were also half boots from the 1750s, cut a little higher than modern ankle boots, which descend from them and worn for shooting and by the military. St James Chronicle, 1763, comments on ‘tradesmen who ape their betters….breeches almost met by a pair of shoes that reached about three and a quarter inches above the ankles.’  They were typical wear for both sides during the American War of Independence  (see Peale’s portrait of Captain John Harleston of Chicago.)

The Hi-Lows are 4 “above the ankle, in Natural rough-out leather with a 1″stacked leather heel.

Full and half sizes 6D to 15EE, 

As to the fit, since the leather on the toe slopes, we suggest 1/2 size larger than your modern dress shoes. We carry widths of D and EE which are the same as modern sizing.

Full and half sizes 7 to 15, widths D and EE meet the sizing of modern shoes, but you may need an extra size as the sloop of the leather to the toe, may need more room in front of the big toe.  That is what gives the boot the look of the 18th Century.

Trekkers come with a pair of leather laces.

^{you are trying to create.}

^{As you can tell it is almost a straight last, but it is a left/right.  That means that the arch in the boot will make it comfortable for walking as for riding.  A steel shank will give a long life to this fine boot.}

^{The leg has been widened so you can wear these boots outside of your trousers.  The leg height is 17″, proportioned to the size. It is lined with calfskin, has pull tabs (not mule ears) on the outside of the top. The toe is a moderate square and the heel is 1 1/4″.  The leather is black and smooth but not a high shine. It has a full lining.}

^{This boot should be good for drovers, prospectors and shooters (before the cowboy boots).}

^{Be sure to have your calf measurement when ordering.}

Full and half sizes 5EE to 15EE.    Women should order one size smaller in men’s sizes.

ALL SALES FINAL – NO RETURNS